Banh Cuon Tom Yum: Thai-Vietnamese Fusion Food
by Kao Piak Sen, Udon Thani, Thani
To my surprise, nearly every local I asked for lunch recommendations in Udon Thani, Thailand suggested that I try what I initially considered to be classic Vietnamese dishes. As it turns out, Udon Thani, a city in the northeastern Issan region of Thailand, has a significant Thai-Vietnamese population which has infused their culinary culture and traditions with the local Thai cuisine to create something really spectacular.
The banh cuon tom yum soup is a perfect example of the exemplary blend of Vietnamese and Thai cuisine found in Udon Thani.
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| Vietnamese-Thai fusion Banh Cuon Tom Yum 89 baht |
Udon Thani is a great city. With a population of 130,000, it is the capital of Udon Thani Province and the sixth largest city in Thailand. As one of the "Big Four" cities in the Issan Region, Udon Thani was once home to a US military base and even an American consulate!
In the tumultuous years between the conclusion of the Second World War and the end of the Vietnam War, Udon Thani witnessed an influx of roughly 50,000 Vietnamese immigrants seeking refuge and a new life. Along with them, they carried the treasures of their homeland – cuisine, customs, and traditions. While these Vietnamese pioneers have integrated into Thai society over the past three generations, Udon Thani still maintains several marks of Vietnamese culture, particularly evident in its unique cuisine.
I wanted to try some of this incredible fusion food, so I stopped in at the highly recommended Kao Piak Sen for a bowl of their famous banh cuon tom yum noodle soup.
Banh cuon is a type of northern Vietnamese rice batter pancakes stuffed full of minced pork, mushrooms, and shallots. In Vietnam, the rice paper rolls are usually served with a fish sauce dipping sauce, but here they were served as the noodle base in a big, hearty bowl of tom yum soup.
Tom yum is one of the national dishes of Thailand. It's a rich, spicy, sour soup with a coconut broth base. The combination between the rich, herbal flavors of the tom yum went amazingly well with the filling banh cuon. The soup was served with a boiled egg and tons of fresh herbs and spicy chili.
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| banh cuon and tom yum soup - fusion food in Udon Thani, Thailand |
Another great dish to order here are the pork broth wet noodles. This savory broth is served with thick, chewy rice noodles and delicious pieces of pork. It's topped with fried garlic and lots of chopped green chives.
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| pork bone broth Vietnamese noodles with sliced pork |
I also ordered a platter of banh beo, a type of savory steamed rice cake topped with crispy pork rinds, pork floss, chives, and chili and served with a sweet dipping sauce. I tried this before in Hue, and really enjoyed it!
Read more: What to eat in Hue, Vietnam
Banh beo is a Vietnamese dish that consists of small, round, and thick rice cakes, typically topped with savory ingredients. The name "banh beo" translates to "water fern cake," referring to the tiny, water fern-shaped molds used to make the cakes. These cakes are a popular snack or appetizer in Vietnamese cuisine.
The base of banh beo is made from rice flour and water, creating a chewy and gelatinous texture. The cakes are often served on small, individual plates. The dish is then drizzled with a sweet and savory dipping sauce made from fish sauce, sugar, garlic, and chili.
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| a plate of banh beo in Udon Thani, Thailand |
Another very popular snack are these little sandwiches served with cold cuts such as pork pie, sweet Chinese sausage, and egg. It's a sort of Udon Thani take on banh mi. It was really interesting to see how different the food was from what I was used to... different even from the Issan food that I had been expecting.
Banh mi thit is a type of banh mi sandwich, although they are simpler and made with smaller loaves of soft bread rather than the traditional Vietnamese crispy baguette.
The final dish to try was a sort of fried egg platter served with minced pork, pork sausage, and slices of sweet Chinese sausage. It was a great side to our filling noodle dishes.
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| banh mi thit, or Vietnamese bread with cold cuts |
The final dish to try was a sort of fried egg platter served with minced pork, pork sausage, and slices of sweet Chinese sausage. It was a great side to our filling noodle dishes.
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| Vietnamese fried egg with pork pie, minced basil pork, and sliced Chinese sweet sausage |
For dessert, I tried Kao Piak Sen's take on Cà Phê Trung, or Egg Coffee. This trendy, traditional Vietnamese drink is rich, sweet, and filling. It's a perfect dessert to round off a fantastic meal.
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| Vietnamese egg coffee at Khao Piak Sen, Udon Thani, Thailand |
Read more: the best food from all across Vietnam
Traveler's Tips
Just once a year, a remarkable phenomenon takes place in Udon Thani. The "Talay Bua Daeng", or "Red Lotus Lake", bursts into colorful bloom every year around February. Talay Bua Daeng is a shallow freshwater lake that covers an area of approximately 2,500 acres, and during the winter months (December to February), it becomes covered in a sea of red lotus flowers.
For just 300 baht, you can hire a small longtail boat to take you out on a tour of the lake. Be sure to wake up early to see the sunrise over the water; the stunning pink flowers open as the sun rises, but close around noon, so the best way to experience the lake is to arrive just before dawn.
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| "Talay Bua Daeng", or "Red Lotus Lake" in Udon Thani, Thailand |
More food in Udon Thani
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See the map for the exact location.
Location
Kao Piak Sen is located at 20 20 Srisuk Soi 4, Mak Khaeng Sub-district, Mueang Udon Thani District, Udon Thani 41000. The restaurant is near the middle of the town and is easy to get to.
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| Kao Piak Sen Restaurant, Udon Thani, Thailand |
See the map for the exact location.
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