Rice Pudding and Turkish Coffee at Lale Restaurant ("The Pudding Shop") in Istanbul, Turkey

Fırın Sütlaç, or Baked Rice Pudding and Turkish Coffee

by The Pudding Shop (Lale Restaurant), Istanbul, Turkey

Since 1957, Lale Restaurant, affectionately called "The Pudding Shop", has been the spot where travelers, tourists, adventurers, and wanderers from all around the world gather in Istanbul to meet up and swap tips and tales of their journeys over a bowl of delicious Turkish pudding, a hot coffee, and maybe a beer or two.

It was still dark on a cold, windy morning in Istanbul, and the warm inviting lights of the Pudding Shop invited me inside to sit down and warm up before continuing my adventures in the city.

While the menu is extensive, I knew I wanted to try fırın sütlaç, the famous Turkish baked rice pudding that quite literally put Lale Restaurant on the map. I ordered a bowl of pudding and a cup of Turkish coffee and made small talk with the old Turkish men who were having an early breakfast at the table next to mine.

sütlaç, or Turkish rice pudding in Istanbul
fırın sütlaç, or Turkish baked rice pudding in Istanbul

Fırın sütlaç is a sweet Turkish rice pudding that is made from fresh whole milk, rice, sugar, vanilla, and eggs. It's baked and served in a shallow clay bowl to give the top a caramelized crust - similar to that of a crème brûlée but much softer. The pudding is then chilled for several hours and is served cold with a dusting of cinnamon.

historic hippie trail pudding shop in Istanbul, Turkey
this legendary meeting place has been open since 1957

The pudding is thick and rich, like a sweet vanilla custard. While generally considered to be a dessert, I found it to be a fantastic and indulgent early-morning breakfast.

chilled Turkish rice pudding with cinnamon
chilled Turkish rice pudding with cinnamon

The rich, sweet pudding goes great with a cup of world-famous Turkish coffee.

a cup of hot, strong Turkish coffee
a cup of hot, strong Turkish coffee

Turkish coffee is considered to be some of the best in the world. The finely-ground coffee is boiled in water and served in small cups without filtering. The super strong brew is traditionally served in a very small porcelain cup called a kahve fincanı (literally "coffee cup").

The resulting coffee is strong - some of the strongest coffee I've ever had! You can get it with sugar or without. Coffee is served all throughout the day in Turkey.

Turkish coffee at Lale Restaurant in Istanbul (The Pudding Shop)
Turkish coffee at Lale Restaurant in Istanbul (The Pudding Shop)

Menu

The Pudding Shop is open every day from 7:30-22:30. It can get crowded in the afternoon or evenings, but I went for breakfast, and it was still calm and quiet.

You can see their menu online on their website: Menu – Pudding Shop

Pudding Shop Menu, Istanbul
Pudding Shop Menu, Istanbul

A Legendary Istanbul Landmark

The Pudding Shop, known locally as "Lale Restaurant," holds a special and quirky place in Istanbul's 20th century history. Situated in the vibrant and historic Sultanahmet district, it has a storied past that dates back to the 1950s and gained international fame in the 1960s and '70s as a hub for travelers exploring the Middle East and Asia on the famous overland journey known as the "Hippie Trail."

Originally named "Lale Lokantası" (Tulip Restaurant), it earned the moniker "Pudding Shop" due to its popular desserts (travelers passing through often couldn't remember its name and would tell their friends to meet them in Istanbul at the "Pudding Shop").

inside Istanbul's legendary Pudding Shop (Lale Restaurant)
inside Istanbul's legendary Pudding Shop (Lale Restaurant)

Today, the Pudding Shop continues to welcome visitors seeking a taste of both traditional Turkish cuisine and a slice of its legendary past. Though it may have shifted and calmed down significantly from its wild freewheeling heyday, The Pudding Shop remains a cultural landmark in Istanbul, inviting both locals and tourists to savor its famous pudding and soak in the nostalgia of its vibrant history.

the walls of The Pudding Shop are covered in photographs, notes, and postcards from travelers
the walls of The Pudding Shop are covered in photographs, notes, and postcards from travelers

The walls are plastered in newspaper clippings, postcards, letters, and photographs from travelers dating back decades. It's a piece of living history commemorating a free-spirited past and evoking a sense of wild adventure and history.

More great food in Istanbul

Traveler's Tips

The Pudding Shop is just steps away from Hagia Sofia, and if you have time to see only one sight in all of Turkey, this is it.

Construction began on the Hagia Sofia in the 4th century AD when Istanbul (then called Constantinople) was the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire, and one of the most important Christian cities in the world. It was originally built as an Orthodox cathedral.

When the Ottoman Empire rose to power in 1453, the church was converted into a mosque. In 1935 the secular government of the new Republic of Turkey turned it into a museum, a decision that was reversed in 2020 when it became a mosque once again.

Hagia Sofia in Istanbul, Turkey
Hagia Sofia in Istanbul, Turkey

Anyone may visit Hagia Sofia regardless of religious beliefs. Be sure to dress appropriately: men and women must cover their legs, and sleeveless shirts are not allowed. Women must cover their heads with a scarf, which will be provided at the entrance if you don't have one.

There is no ticket, and it's completely free to visit!

Arrive early. Doors open promptly at 9:00 in the morning, and it gets crowded fast. I arrived at 8:00 and stood in line at the entrance for an hour so that I could be the first one inside. I hurried in when the gates opened so that I could snap a photograph of the beautiful building before the crowds filled in.

inside Hagia Sofia without any visitors in the early morning

Location

The Pudding Shop is located at Alemdar, Divan Yolu Cd. No:6, 34400 Fatih/İstanbul, Türkiye. It's just a few meters away from the Hagia Sofia. The nearest public transportation is Sultanahmet Tram station, which is just 2–3-minute walk from the restaurant.

Pudding Shop Lale Restaurant in Istanbul, Turkey
Pudding Shop Lale Restaurant in Istanbul, Turkey

You can see the exact location and directions to The Pudding Shop on the map below.

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