Red Tree Ants with Beef and Spicy Basil in Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Ongkrong Saek Koo, or Stir-Fried Red Tree Ants with Beef

by Banteay Srey Restaurant, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Ongkrong Saek Koo is one of modern Cambodia's most famous and most adventurous dishes. This dish, called "red tree ants with beef and spicy basil" in English, was developed by TREE Alliance, a Cambodian-based NGO that trains local street children in the hospitality industry in order to teach them valuable skills to help break the cycle of poverty in the country.

The dish has in recent years become famous for adventurous expats and travelers, but insects as food are certainly nothing new throughout the world and are even seen as a delicacy in many parts of Southeast Asia.

I stepped into Banteay Srey Restaurant in Phnom Penh, Cambodia one afternoon with no intention but to have a nice curry or bowl of noodles... however, when I saw that this legendary dish was offered on the menu, I decided to take the leap and go for it.

red tree ants with beef and spicy basil

Served with a side portion of steamed white rice, the stir-fry arrived at my table steaming hot and smelling delicious. At first glance, it looked like a typical stir-fried dish, but upon closer inspection I could see the hundreds of small red ants (also known as tree ants or weaver ants) which made up an integral part of this dish.

A bed of fresh steamed morning glory was topped with a hearty stir-fry of thin-cut Cambodian beef mixed with aromatics such as chopped onion, fiery red chili peppers, peppery holy basil, and, of course, red tree ants.

Cambodian beef and ant stir-fry in Phnom Penh

The first taste of the dish gave me the impression of a tasty yet standard spicy basil stir-fry. The taste of beef in each bite was enhanced by a peppery and herbal basil flavor and a hint of spice. However, the flavor that came next was the most significant and surprising.

The red tree ants gave each bite a hardly noticeable crunch and the aftertaste a mildly sour, slightly tangy feeling that reminded me of a very mild Szechuan peppercorn or mala flavor. The taste made my tongue tingle very slightly, and the experience of eating it was nothing like any sort of stir-fry I'd ever had before. It actually elevated the dish in a way that I never would have expected by introducing flavors and an experience that was brand-new to me.

I had never tried ants before, and the flavor surprised me. What also surprised me was that I was not at all put off by the sight of insects in my food! I was a little bit worried in the back of my mind that I might not be able to eat this dish, but I found it delicious and easy to enjoy (I just tried not to think too much about the ingredients while eating). I'm not at all opposed to eating insects... in theory.

My recommendation: give it a try!

red tree ants with beef at Banteay Srey Restaurant, Phnom Penh, Cambodia

Price

This dish costs $5 USD or ៛20,000 KHR. The restaurant serves a variety of traditional Cambodian dishes made with high quality ingredients in a modern and comfortable restaurant. There is also a great drink menu. I also recommend their delicious grilled fish amok.

Location

Banteay Srey Restaurant is located at Preah Ang Eng St. (13), Phnom Penh. It's in a convenient location very close to the National Museum and the Royal Palace.

The owner and staff are very friendly and can speak excellent English. Be sure to say "hello" to the friendly restaurant cat!

Banteay Srey Restaurant, Phnom Penh, Cambodia (Royal Palace neighborhood)

See the map for the exact location.